The Rise and Fall of the Garment District
Historical Transformation of the Garment District
New York, is synonymous with fashion. The renowned Garment District is situated in midtown Manhattan between 5th and 9th Avenue. Serving as the headquarters for major fashion houses like Calvin Klein and Oscar de la Renta, the district encompasses wholesalers, showrooms, and warehouses, offering all things fashionable.
The Garment District of New York started growing around the early 1900s around 5Th Avenue due to large amounts of immigration. According to Ariel Viera’s Documentary on his YouTube channel “Urbanist Exploring Cities,” the majority of these immigrants worked in and around the garment industry, causing it to grow. By 1915 there was a push by the “Fifth Avenue Association”, a group of wealthy and influential City dwellers the population that lived there, and the industry that had been built around it. This was led by Robert Grier Cooke who aspired to transform 5th Avenue into a walking paradise of business and beautiful architecture. The explosion of the garment industry started to impede the growth of 5th Avenue so zoning laws passed in July 1916 called for the relocation of garment production to lead the way for the construction of subways.
These zoning laws caused the Garment district to be pushed back toward 7th and 9th Avenue. The area in which it is located today used to be very run down with high levels of prostitution and crime, and according to “The Garment District Alliance” was nicknamed the ‘Tenderloin” and the “Devil’s Arcade” during the late 1800s. Due to lower rent prices, a lot of these immigrants were sectored into the “Tenderloin”. Thus, this great influx of Immigrants during this time, the population of workers in the garment industry increased. By 1926, the district became the fastest growing site for construction within New York, creating higher buildings to accommodate this growth and un-slumming the area.
The end of World War I brought garment factories closer to the city center and created a fashion buzz, but New York reached the height of its fashion prowess during World War Two. Due to the German occupation of Paris, eyes looked toward the garment district of New York as the new fashion capital of the world. This time brought the promotion of fashion design and production in the area. Additionally in 1944, the Fashion Institute of Technology and Design was founded to support education within the Garment District. The peak of the Garment District’s influence brought a fast-paced business to the area where “Workers pushed and pulled around hand trucks, clothes hanging all over as they scrambled to haul materials to the next factory.” According to Bloomberg’s photo deep dive into “The Glory Days of New York City’s Garment District”.
The Garment District of New York was built up on overcoming obstacles. This perseverance of the garment industry would not have survived without immigrants entering the workforce, struggling through zoning laws and un slumming left the district to thrive in the mid-1900s with the Second World War. The history of New York’s fashion capital helps support the hope despite the decline in the area currently.
Resilience and Innovation of the Workforce
The fashion industry would not be able to stand without the support of workers. The backbone of the Garment District starting up was Immigration. The district started to thrive due to the millions of immigrants that came to America at the turn of the 19th Century. The majority of the immigrants were Jewish Eastern Europeans who made up about 67 percent of the skilled workforce in New York according to “The Garment District Alliance”. As they were unable to own land, many Eastern European Jews lived in cities and picked up skills in Manufacturing, sewing, and Textile production. Manufacturing was also moved closer to this district as a direct result of where the labor was.
With manufacturing moving closer this called for a rise in jobs and the creation of larger and larger factories. The rise in demand for clothes also led to a rise in demand for better working conditions. One infamous example that called for better safety within these factories was the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire. This fire was a result of exploitive working conditions and locking doors to prevent leaving work early. The locked doors prevented the approximately 600 employees from leaving the building when the fire occurred. This resulted in 146 workers losing their lives due to the lack of safety measures present in 1911. Ultimately, this tragic event helped lead the rise of the first successful garment union, the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (ILGWU), as well as sparking industry reforms that resulted in improving working conditions and safety precautions.
The Garment District, and by extension the Fashion Industry, provide a multitude of jobs outside of just designing and manufacturing. This is ever-present in the documentation of the fashion industry. During the 1940s and 1950s, fashion journalism was able to be found in prominent newspapers which as The New York Times and The New York Herald Tribune. According to “The Gotham Center for New York City History” quoting Virginia Pope, the fashion editor of The New York Times, “The came the war, and the Paris blackout. There were no reporters from Paris. So, we did New York designer stories, and New York fashion stories”. Pope was the initiator of annual fashion shows and the main contributor to the rise of fashion Journalism. Social media aids in the growth of fashion journalism as it is becoming a main source of marketing and brand promotion for fashion designers. According to the Garment District Alliance: Business Development and Collaborative the introduction of social media marketing helps build community and strengthen the capacity of the company. As fashion moves to a greater online presence, the charm that major magazines such as Elle, Vogue, and Women’s Wear Daily’s physical magazines used to have now been changed to a website format to increase outreach.
Currently, the job market in New York’s Garment District is recovering from the pandemic. According to the Garment District Alliance 2022-2023 report “The pandemic drove a loss of nearly 18,000 jobs, a 13% reduction, in the Garment District in 2020”. The number of jobs has increased steadily as pandemic restrictions have been lifted. Regardless of the pandemic decline, New York’s bi-annual fashion show brings in a load of Jobs. Additionally, the Women’s Wear Daily states that in 2015, New York employed more than 184,000 employees, from models, photographers, event organizers, and more. As we adjust back to regular life there is the hope that the Garment District of New York continues to harbor.
NYFW: Showcasing New Ideas
While New York City is not the fashion metropolis that it was in the early 1900s, it is still considered one of the 4 fashion capitals of the world. This is extremely evident through the bi-annual Fashion Week. This gargantuan event is a large collection of fashion shows, showcasing the upcoming season's trends and styles.
NYFW started in the mid-1950s as an attempt by fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert to increase the influence New York had started to gain as a fashion capital during World War two. During her time as fashion editor Lambert implemented Fashion Press Week to showcase American fashion designers. This week quickly evolved from just press coverage to becoming fashion shows to present designers’ ideas. According to “The Zoe Report” Ruth Finley, Eleanor Lambert’s mentee, proposed creating “The Fashion Calander” consisting of the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter seasons. This organization is what became the bi-annual Fashion Week that we still follow today.
NYFW is a major attracter to the New York area. According to Women’s Wear Daily, the 2015 Fall/Winter New York Fashion Week brought approximately 232,000 attendees to more than 500 shows. Additionally, NYFW is seen through the largescale press this event receives. The weeks leading up to and following the event are consistent press about it on most social media sites. This buzz also brings many people to the city, not just celebrities. This increased tourism leads to busy streets and an economic boom generating ~865 million dollars each year according to a 2012 article on the NYFW’s economic impact.
NYFW is an integral part of New York’s Garment District. This bi-annual event helps bring attention to the garment district which has been on a steady decline. With the implementation of social media in the broadcasting and promotion of this infamous event, the garment district can hopefully start to thrive again.
Hope for a Fashion Revival
The Look of the New York Garment District is currently at an all-time low. With the rise of cheap outsourced manufacturing, the garment district has been in a steep decline. Many fashion brands have started to move out of New York. Outsourced, cheap manufacturing has also led to a rise in fast fashion brands and quicker-moving trends, and corners are cut in attempts to please consumers.
The decline of the Garment District started in the 1960s with the increase of outsourcing manufacturing. Cheaper labor costs were found in Asia and American factories started to disappear. For companies that decided to stay with in-country production, it became more difficult to find workers. As labor started moving out of the city, decline was inevitable. According to the Garment District Alliance “Between 1958 and 1977, the number of garment manufacturing firms in Manhattan was cut in half, from 10,329 to 5,096”. Because of this rapid decline and increase in renting prices around 1990, the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union strived to preserve the garment industry. Through their work fighting off the rebuilding of Times Square in a four-year legal battle, the garment district has been preserved. These dreams of preservation are currently being seen to fruition through the Fashion Center Business Improvement District (BID). The BID is a non-profit organization that “works with property owners, tenants, and the City of New York on ongoing and specialized programs designed to promote the positive development of the district”, according to the Garment District Alliance.
The extreme quantity over quality fast fashion movement has led to large amounts of disdain toward the fashion industry. This is ever present with the ever-present decline in New York’s Fashion District. There is hope as according to Ariel Viera’s Documentary on the garment district there has been an increase of small-scale designers that will hopefully shift to a slower production market. By slowing the market by investing in small-scale, but high-quality, designers and garments the district can start to thrive again. This idea is supported by NPR’s 2013 article “New York's Grimy Garment District Hatches Designers' Dreams.”. This article highlights New York-based women’s wear designer Ann Yee. Yee praises the district amenities that New York’s Garment District can provide from pattern makers to textile specialists. Easier access, and lack of ocean or language barrier, allow her to have more control over her manufacturing process. Additionally, another designer, Nanette Lepore states that if “U.S. craftsmanship were a dress [it would be] a strapless dress that won't slide down."
As Time progresses there is hope for the Garment District of New York Despite encountering challenges related to zoning and the influence of fast fashion trends, there exists a resilience ingrained in the essence of the Garment District that has sustained it thus far. With the sudden push for more sustainable and slower fashion from consumers, the garment district will start to thrive again.
Sources:
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